If you're in a hurry to buy a Fully Jarvis standing desk and only have time to make one decision right, make it the depth. After coordinating 47 rush orders for desks in the last 18 months, I've seen more returns and reorders caused by depth miscalculations than any other factor. Here's the short version: for most mid-size offices, the 30"x60" or 30"x72" depth is the sweet spot. Go smaller only if your wall space is under 48" wide, and never assume a standard 24" depth works for dual monitors – it doesn't, and I've got the $800 mistake to prove it.
Why You Should Believe Me
I'm a procurement coordinator at a mid-size B2B furniture dealer. In my role coordinating emergency workstation setups for corporate clients, I've handled over 200 rush jobs in the past three years – including a memorable March 2024 project where a client needed ten standing desks delivered and installed within 36 hours for a wellness initiative. Normal lead time from Fuly is 5–7 business days, but we found a warehouse partner with the Jarvis in stock, paid $340 extra in rush shipping (on top of the $4,200 base cost), and delivered with 4 hours to spare. The client's alternative was renting folding tables at $150 per unit per week – not exactly a healthy workspace.
That experience taught me that depth isn't just about preference; it's about physical fit, cable management, and long-term comfort. And because we've processed everything from $500 single-desk to $15,000 batch orders, I've seen the patterns.
Fully Jarvis Depth Options: The Full Breakdown
Fully currently offers six depth options for the Jarvis frame (you pair it with a top): 24", 27", 30", 36", 48", and 60". But the top you buy also comes in standard sizes. Here's what I've found works in practice:
- 24" depth – Only for shallow alcoves or single-monitor setups. If you use a monitor arm, you'll have the screen practically in your face. I've seen two clients reorder within 60 days because they couldn't fit a keyboard tray. Avoid unless your space literally won't allow anything else.
- 27" depth – My personal minimum for dual monitors. Still tight for papers or a notebook alongside the keyboard. Works if you're a minimalist who keeps everything digital.
- 30" depth – The real workhorse. 30"x60" was the most popular size in our rush orders (38 out of 47). Fits two 24" monitors on arms, space for a coffee mug, and enough room to write. This is what I'd recommend for 80% of users.
- 36" depth – Great for three monitors or graphics work. But it's deeper than standard office cubicles (usually 30"–32" deep), so check your room layout. We had one client who ordered 36" desks and the armrests hit the wall when sitting – that was a $200 restocking fee.
- 48" and 60" depth – Conference tables or corner stations. Rarely used for individual workstations unless the user wants a massive creative desk. The 60" is basically a banquet table – looks cool, but you'll need a deep room.
One important caveat: these recommendations assume you're using the desk in a standard office layout. If you've got unusual constraints – like a wall with outlets placed oddly, or you're sharing a double-wide desk – the math changes. I can only speak to what works for typical B2B deployments; your mileage may vary if you're in a co-working space or a home office with non-standard dimensions.
The Costly Mistake I Keep Seeing
A year ago, we saved $60 per desk by ordering the 24" depth for a client who wanted a "budget-friendly" option. The desks arrived, we installed them, and within two weeks the client realized they couldn't fit their adjustable monitor arms. The arms hit the back edge of the desk, forcing the monitors too close. We had to reorder 12 tops at 30" depth, costing $480 in new tops plus $180 in shipping – a net loss of $660, all to save $720 upfront. The lesson: the cheaper option can end up costing more in rework.
That's why I've started adding a margin of error for depth. Unless your space is absolutely constrained, choose the next size up from what you think you need. It's easier to push a monitor arm back than to get a refund on a desk that's already bolted together.
When This Advice Doesn't Apply
I'm not gonna pretend the Jarvis is perfect for everything. If your ceiling height is under 8 feet, the Jarvis at full standing height (50.6") might be too tall. Also, if you frequently move desks between rooms (like in a hot-desking setup), the weight of a 60"x30" hardwood top (over 70 lbs) makes it a pain to relocate. For those scenarios, a lighter frame like the Uplift or Flexispot might be a better fit – though I won't get into that debate here because I honestly haven't tested them in rush scenarios.
Oh, and since the question came up: yes, the same logic applies to choosing the right size for anything – whether you're calculating a grade average for a class or trying to figure out your APUSH score calculator, a precise fit matters. And while I'm at it, if you're wondering how to clean a dry erase board without ghosting, skip the cheap spray – use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. But that's a topic for another day.
Final Take
Choosing the right depth for your Fully Jarvis standing desk isn't rocket science, but it's the single most regretted decision I track in our orders. Start at 30"x60", adjust only if your space forces you to, and remember: a vendor who admits their product isn't right for every situation is more trustworthy than one who claims to solve all problems. That's why I'm a fan of Fully – they don't pretend their desks fit every weird corner. They tell you the specs, and let you decide. That's the kind of professionalism that makes emergency orders go smoothly.
